Napier Jewelry: American Innovation in Costume Design

From Watch Chains to Fashion Icons

Founded in the late 19th century as The E.A. Bliss Company, Napier originally specialized in men’s watch chains and fine metal accessories. It wasn’t until the 1920s—following a rebrand to The Napier Company—that the brand became a prominent name in costume jewelry. By the time the Art Deco movement swept across the globe, Napier was already designing jewelry that reflected the geometric sophistication and modern energy of the era.

Art Deco Beginnings and Bold Transformations

Napier’s early jewelry designs leaned heavily into Art Deco influences, with clean lines, geometric patterns, and polished metals. In the 1950s and 60s, under the creative direction of Eugene Bertolli, the brand embraced Mid-Century Modernism—producing statement necklaces, wide cuffs, and dramatic earrings that reflected the bold fashion sensibilities of the time. Gold-plated finishes, stylized florals, and sculptural elements became Napier signatures.

Fashion-Forward and Celeb-Approved

Napier was a favorite among fashionable women and Hollywood stars alike. The brand’s pieces were regularly featured in major fashion magazines and worn by icons such as Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, and Doris Day. The company’s ability to stay on trend—while maintaining a distinct design language—earned it a loyal following among collectors and fashion editors.

Craftsmanship and Consistency

Napier pieces were known for their quality construction, often using hefty metalwork, hand-applied finishes, and secure closures. Their iconic clip-on earrings, statement necklaces, and convertible pieces (like pendant brooches) reflected both creativity and durability. Even unsigned Napier designs are valued for their build quality and recognizable aesthetic.

Design Language and Iconic Motifs

While the brand experimented with many styles across decades, it maintained a strong identity rooted in metal-forward design, often letting bold shapes and structure take precedence over heavy embellishment. Leaf motifs, twisted wirework, and brushed gold finishes became visual hallmarks.

Legacy and Collectibility

Though the original Napier Company ceased operations in the late 20th century, its jewelry remains highly collectible and widely respected. Vintage Napier pieces are sought after not only for their beauty but for the brand's role in defining American costume jewelry across several key design movements. Today, Napier continues to hold a place of esteem among vintage enthusiasts, stylists, and historians alike.