The Sparkling Legacy of Schreiner Jewelry: History, Design & Collectability
Vintage costume jewelry enthusiasts often speak with reverence about Schreiner Jewelry – a name synonymous with imaginative design and exceptional craftsmanship. Founded in the mid-20th century, Schreiner produced some of the most striking pieces of costume jewelry, from glittering rhinestone brooches to elaborate parure sets. Collectors treasure Schreiner for its signature inverted stones, vibrant color combinations, and innovative construction techniques that set the brand apart.
In this post, we’ll take a warm, collector-focused journey through Schreiner’s full history – from its humble beginnings to its golden era of design – and explore the elements that make these pieces so desirable. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just discovering vintage jewelry, you’ll find inspiration in Schreiner’s story and hopefully feel encouraged to explore vintage treasures and connect with fellow enthusiasts along the way.
Table of content
A History of Schreiner: From Founding to Fame
A Humble Start in New York City
Schreiner Jewelry Company was established in New York City, with roots dating back to the early 1930s. The founder, Henry Schreiner (1898–1954), emigrated from Germany to the U.S. in 1923 and worked as a craftsman in the jewelry and fashion accessory trade. After honing his skills (even working for a buckle company and creating jewelry components for fashion houses), Henry officially launched the Schreiner Jewelry Company around 1932. In its earliest years, Schreiner produced pieces very much in tune with the times: Art Deco style dress clips, monogram pins, and brooches made of sterling silver and marcasites – a far cry from the bold technicolor designs that later defined the brand. These early offerings laid the foundation for Schreiner’s reputation for quality, but the company’s aesthetic would soon evolve dramatically.
By the late 1930s and into the 1940s, Henry Schreiner began experimenting with more adventurous designs. He moved away from simply copying prevalent styles and started developing Schreiner’s own distinctive look. An important shift came when Schreiner sourced special Czech glass stones in unusual shapes and hue. This infusion of distinctive colors and shapes helped transform the company’s style from modest to imaginative and eye-catching, even as World War II made materials scarce. (Henry had the foresight to stockpile enough metal findings before wartime rationing hit, which kept his workshop productive through the early 1940s.)
During this time Schreiner’s workshop, though relatively small (around 40 employees at most), produced not only its own jewelry line but also buttons, buckles and costume jewelry for high-end fashion designers. Notably, Schreiner supplied ornate accessories to American couture designers like Norman Norell, Pauline Trigère, and Adele Simpson to complement their collections. This arrangement meant many Schreiner pieces from the 1940s were unsigned – made on commission for designers and sold under those fashion labels – but it built the Schreiner name among those in the know.
From Wartime Buttons to Statement Jewelry
In 1949, Schreiner even created a custom brooch and earring set for the House of Christian Dior, sparking legends of a deep Dior-Schreiner partnership. In reality, that Dior collaboration was a one-off commission, but it exemplified Schreiner’s ability to produce French-inspired glamour. By the early 1950s, the company was flourishing. Henry’s daughter Theresa “Terry” Schreiner joined the business, as did her husband Ambros Albert (an engineer with a flair for design) around 1951. Schreiner’s pieces were gracing high-profile venues – even appearing on models in Vogue magazine photoshoots and covers in the early 1950s. Despite the prestige, Schreiner remained a relatively intimate family-run operation. Henry famously quipped that if you can’t see the back of your factory, it’s too large – and indeed he kept the business tight-knit to maintain quality control
A Family Affair: The Rise of Pauline and Terry Schreiner
Tragically, Henry Schreiner passed away in 1954, just as his boldest designs were gaining acclaim. Terry Schreiner and Ambros Albert took up the reins, determined to continue Henry’s legacy. This husband-and-wife team would usher Schreiner into its golden age. Terry managed client relations and the showroom, while Ambros became the lead designer and craftsman, creating many of the most coveted Schreiner pieces that collectors adore today. Under their leadership in the late 1950s and 1960s, Schreiner produced an array of spectacular jewelry sold not only through couture houses but also directly to luxury retailers. They developed exclusive lines for upscale department stores like Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Henri Bendel, with those pieces proudly signed “Schreiner” or “Schreiner New York” on an applied cartouche. Meanwhile, the custom work for fashion designers continued (those pieces typically remained unsigned). This two-pronged approach – supplying both fashion houses and top retailers – meant Schreiner jewelry was everywhere from runway shows to boutique displays, all without the company needing to spend a dime on advertising. The jewelry itself drew eyes and buyers on its own merits.
Distinctive Designs That Defined an Era
One hallmark of Schreiner’s late-1950s creativity was the introduction of new stone cuts and assembly techniques. In 1957, Terry Schreiner designed the renowned “ruffle” brooch, a striking starburst design featuring layers of elongated triangular (kite-shaped) crystals fanning out around a dramatic center stone. These kite-cut crystals (often made in post-war Germany by Czech artisans specifically for Schreiner) became something of a Schreiner signature, also appearing in the company’s elaborate Maltese cross pendants and other pieces. Schreiner’s design language at this time embraced bigger, bolder, and more colorful. Pieces were often built in tall, domed layers to achieve a 3D effect, dripping with dazzling rhinestones or art-glass cabochons. The company became known for jewelry that was theatrical and large-scale – indeed, Schreiner made many show-stopping parure sets and bib necklaces for fashion shows, intending them to catch the spotlight from the runway’s distance. It’s even said that Hollywood icons of the era like Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, and Bette Davis wore Schreiner jewelry, attracted by its unique glamour. Whether on screen, on the pages of Vogue, or on a well-dressed socialite at a 1960s cocktail party, Schreiner jewels commanded attention.
The End of Production, and the Start of a Legacy
By the early 1970s, after roughly four decades of output, the Schreiner enterprise finally wound down. Ambros Albert’s health began to fail around 1970–1972, prompting him to retire from design. Terry Schreiner continued a bit longer, but in 1975 she made the difficult decision to close the business and retire as well. The remaining inventory was sold off, marking the end of Schreiner Jewelry’s production. Though the company ceased operations, its legacy was only just beginning – as the coming decades would see avid collectors hunt down Schreiner pieces and elevate the brand to legendary status in the vintage costume jewelry world.
Signature Design Elements of Schreiner Jewelry
One reason Schreiner jewelry enchants collectors is its utterly distinctive construction and style. Several signature design elements and techniques define Schreiner pieces. Here are some of the most noteworthy characteristics that seasoned collectors associate with the Schreiner name:
- Inverted Stones (Pointy-Up Rhinestones): Perhaps the most famous Schreiner trademark is the use of inverted rhinestones – stones set upside-down with the pointed facet facing outward. Schreiner often left these rhinestones unfoiled (without a mirror backing) so that they would pick up the color of the fabric or skin behind them, creating a subtle glow. This idea was partly born of necessity: after World War II, Ambros discovered many old stock crystals in their inventory had worn foil, so he simply scraped off the remaining foil and set them point-side-up for a new look. The result was so appealing that inverted stones became a recurring feature in Schreiner designs through the 1970s. When you see a domed brooch covered in glittering stones that look like little pyramids, there’s a good chance it could be Schreiner (or inspired by Schreiner).
- Hook-and-Eye Layered Construction: Schreiner pieces are celebrated for their engineering as much as their beauty. Many large Schreiner brooches and earrings were built in layers to achieve height and dimension. Instead of casting single heavy pieces, Schreiner artisans fabricated jewelry by soldering together multiple settings (stone cups) and then hooking layers together with a metal hook-and-eye mechanism. This hook-and-eye construction adds strength and allows complex tiered designs – you might notice, on the back of a Schreiner brooch, small curved hooks attaching one layer to another. The layered approach also meant Schreiner could mix different shapes and sizes of stones in an artful three-dimensional collage. Collectors love examining these structural details; it’s like peeking under the hood of a finely crafted machine and finding an ingenious hand-built design instead of mass-produced parts.
- Distinctive Color Combinations: Bold, unexpected color palettes are another Schreiner hallmark. While pre-WWII rhinestone jewelry tended to use clear stones or single-color schemes, Schreiner (especially in the 1950s–60s) became known for mixing unusual colors together in one piece. For example, Schreiner might combine vibrant emerald green with fuchsia pink, or amber topaz with peridot green and sky blue – daring pairings that somehow worked beautifully and made the designs pop. The company sourced many of its glass stones from Czechoslovakia and Europe, including custom hues that weren’t commonly seen elsewhere. This gave Schreiner jewelry a palette that could range from soft pastels to striking jewel tones, often all in the same set. Collectors often cite Schreiner’s fearless use of color as a big part of the brand’s charm and “wow” factor.
- Unique Stone Shapes & Materials: In addition to inverted stones, Schreiner utilized distinctive stone cuts and materials. The triangular “keystone” crystals mentioned earlier are one example – these kite-shaped stones were a Schreiner signature, featured in pieces like the ruffle brooch and Maltese cross designs of the late 1950s. Schreiner also loved oversized cabochons (smooth domed stones) made of art glass, often used as dramatic centerpieces in brooches. Sometimes they incorporated Lucite or acrylic “stones” as well – for instance, large faceted Lucite drops appear in certain Schreiner earrings and brooches, providing big color impact without extra weight. Because Schreiner had connections with European stone makers, they had access to unusual shapes like tear-drop pearls, marquise (navette) cuts, and elongated baguettes that weren’t standard fare in other mid-century costume jewelry lines. Many Schreiner designs cleverly play with texture and shape, mixing round, emerald-cut, marquise, and cabochon stones all in one piece for a rich, layered effect.
- Pronounced Prong Settings and Finishes: A subtle but important trait of Schreiner jewelry is in the settings and prongs that hold each stone. Rather than plain prongs, Schreiner often used ornate, pointed prongs sometimes called “dog-tooth” prongs (because their jagged shapes resemble canine teeth). These prongs not only securely grip the stones but also add a decorative, almost lacy outline around them. Some Schreiner pieces feature prongs shaped like fleur-de-lis or scalloped petals, demonstrating how even functional components became part of the design. Additionally, Schreiner experimented with metal finishes: while many pieces were gold- or silver-plated, the company was an early adopter of japanned metal (black enamel finish on metal) to provide a dramatic contrast to bright rhinestones. A glittering brooch set in black metal has a definite wow factor – the dark setting makes the vivid colors of the crystals even more intense, an effect Henry Schreiner specifically sought to achieve. The choice of plating (whether shiny gold, antiqued copper, gunmetal, or black japanned) was very intentional and part of Schreiner’s design palette.
- Convertible and Clever Designs: Schreiner jewelry also exhibits thoughtful functionality. For instance, many Schreiner brooches include a hidden hook on the back, allowing them to be attached to a chain and worn as pendants. This hook-and-pin combo design meant a single piece could serve dual purpose – a clever feature for the fashion-savvy woman who might want to convert a brooch to a necklace centerpiece. Likewise, some Schreiner earrings of the 1950s have a distinctive circular clip back (often called the “donut hole” clip by collectors) – these completely round clip backs are another hint that an unmarked earring might be Schreiner-made. Details like these show the brand’s focus on both form and function, giving the wearer multiple ways to enjoy a piece.
All of these elements – the inverted unfoiled stones, layered hook construction, fearless color mixes, custom-cut gems, dramatic prongs, and versatile fittings – combine to create the inimitable look of Schreiner jewelry. It’s a look that is opulent, whimsical, and instantly recognizable to vintage jewelry lovers. Part of the fun for collectors is learning these traits and then hunting for them in the wild, hoping to spot an unsigned Schreiner piece by its characteristics.
Legacy and Collectability of Schreiner Jewelry
Even though Schreiner Jewelry ceased production in the mid-1970s, its legacy shines brightly in today’s collector market. In fact, Schreiner is experiencing a renaissance among vintage jewelry enthusiasts, with surging demand and rising values noted in recent years. Several factors contribute to Schreiner’s enduring appeal and collectability:
Exceptional Design and Quality
Simply put, Schreiner pieces have a “it factor.” The combination of inventive design, high-quality materials, and hand-crafted construction gives these jewels a level of artistry that stands out, even against other famous costume jewelry brands. Collectors often remark that owning a Schreiner is like owning a miniature piece of art. The jewelry was built to last – soldered and assembled by hand, not mass-produced – so many surviving pieces remain in beautiful condition, ready to be worn and admired decades later. This quality also means Schreiner jewelry can hold its value (and often appreciate) as treasured vintage collectibles.
Limited Supply & Unique Pieces
Schreiner was a relatively small operation with limited output, and many pieces were made in small batches or even one-of-a-kind for runway shows or designer clients. Unlike some costume jewelry houses that churned out tens of thousands of identical pieces, Schreiner’s production was on a modest scale. No official trademark was ever registered, and the company never broadly advertised – its reputation grew by word of mouth and through the sparkle of its designs on the runway and in magazines. As a result, authentic Schreiner jewelry is considerably rarer on the market today than, say, vintage Trifari or Coro pieces. This rarity, paired with the uniqueness of Schreiner designs, makes them hotly sought-after. Each find feels special. It’s not uncommon for a collector to search years for a particular Schreiner set or to encounter designs they’ve never seen before when a long-tucked-away estate piece comes to light. For modern collectors, that thrill of the hunt is a big part of Schreiner’s allure.
Identifying Authentic Schreiner
One topic any Schreiner fan quickly learns is how to identify unsigned pieces. Many Schreiner treasures are unmarked (especially those made for fashion designers in the 1940s–50s), which can make identification a bit of a detective game. Signed Schreiner pieces carry identifying marks usually on a small rectangular cartouche reading “Schreiner”, “Schreiner New York”, or “Schreiner Jewelry N.Y.C.”. These marks appear mostly on items sold through department stores in the 1950s–60s. If you find a Schreiner piece still in its original store packaging or with retailer hangtags, that’s a real prize!
However, unsigned Schreiner can be just as significant and valuable – you simply need to know what to look for. Collectors rely on the combination of signature Schreiner construction and design traits (like those we outlined above) to peg an unsigned piece as Schreiner. For example, if you come across a brooch with inverted unfoiled stones, fancy triangular prongs, a layered hook-and-eye build, and perhaps that telltale brooch hook on the back, there’s a good chance it’s Schreiner or even a verified design from Schreiner’s archives. Of course, other companies occasionally used one or two similar elements, so experts caution that no single trait guarantees a Schreiner origin.
It’s the overall combination and quality that matter. Fortunately, resources exist to help – the 2017 book “Schreiner: Masters of Twentieth-Century Costume Jewelry” by Carole Tanenbaum and Eve Townsend documented many confirmed designs (through interviews with the Schreiner family and archive research) and offers guidelines for identification. Additionally, dedicated collectors have created online communities and databases. For instance, Schreinery.com is a project by a devoted collector that archives Schreiner designs, and there’s an active Schreiner collectors group on Facebook sharing knowledge and photos. These resources are invaluable for learning to authenticate pieces.
Why Collectors Love Schreiner Today
Ask any collector why Schreiner remains so desirable, and you’ll hear a lot of enthusiasm! For one, Schreiner jewelry encapsulates the glamour of mid-century fashion – wearing a Schreiner brooch can instantly transport you to the couture salons of the 1950s. The pieces have a boldness and whimsy that make them conversation starters; they’re the kind of jewelry that invites compliments. Also, because they’re relatively scarce, owning a Schreiner gives a sense of pride and connection to a special piece of fashion history. In recent years, more people have become aware of Schreiner thanks to exhibitions and publications (the Tanenbaum/Townsend book notably spurred new interest).
As demand has increased, so have market values – Schreiner pieces that might have sold for modest sums decades ago are now recognized for their worth, sometimes fetching significant prices at auction or in antique shops. Yet many collectors say they would never sell their prized Schreiners; these pieces often become heirlooms and favorites in a collection. Importantly, the collector community around Schreiner is very welcoming. Enthusiasts love to share photos of their latest find or swap stories of how they finally acquired that elusive design. New collectors are often mentored by more experienced ones in identifying real Schreiners and avoiding look-alikes. In this way, collecting Schreiner isn’t just about owning jewelry – it’s about joining a passionate community and preserving a piece of design legacy.
In summary, Schreiner’s legacy lives on through the dedicated collectors who cherish each piece’s artistry. The brand may have closed its doors in 1975, but its creations continue to dazzle and inspire. If you’re lucky enough to snag a Schreiner brooch or necklace for your own collection, you’re not just acquiring a beautiful accessory – you’re keeping alive the story of a family-run business that left an outsized mark on costume jewelry history.
Notable Schreiner Designs and Collections (with Visuals)
Nothing brings Schreiner’s magic to life better than seeing the jewelry itself. Let’s explore a couple of notable Schreiner designs that epitomize the brand’s creativity, supported by visuals from known examples:
Other notable Schreiner creations include its elaborate Maltese cross pendants (which also used the distinctive kite-cut stones), whimsical figural brooches like fruits and flowers made with art-glass cabochons, and opulent bib necklaces dripping with layers of rhinestones (quite rare, as they were expensive to produce). Schreiner produced jewelry that ranged from playful (e.g., a colorful rhinestone butterfly brooch) to ultra-glamorous (a massive collar necklace worn in an haute couture show). This diversity in design means there’s a Schreiner piece to match almost any collector’s fancy, whether you gravitate toward classic clear crystal elegance or wild avant-garde color explosions.
Conclusion
Schreiner Jewelry remains a shining star in the firmament of vintage costume jewelry – a brand that truly earned its iconic status through creativity, quality, and a bit of audacity in design. From its humble beginnings with Henry Schreiner soldering buckles in the back of a New York shop, to its mid-century heyday lighting up runways and magazines, to its modern resurgence among collectors, Schreiner’s story is a rich tapestry that adds depth to any jewelry lover’s appreciation of the craft. Perhaps most importantly, Schreiner’s legacy lives on every time someone wears one of their pieces to express their personal style or shares a find with a fellow collector. There is a warm camaraderie in the vintage jewelry community – a shared understanding that these old pieces are more than just accessories; they are connections to history and to each other.
We hope this deep dive into Schreiner’s history and designs has been both informative and inspiring. Maybe it’s sparked a memory of a fabulous brooch your grandmother wore, or maybe it’s ignited a new curiosity to hunt for Schreiner treasures yourself. Collectors often say that once you acquire your first Schreiner piece, you’ll be hooked – and we can see why! If you’re feeling that spark, we encourage you to explore, learn, and engage with other enthusiasts. Attend vintage jewelry shows, join online collector groups, or reach out to us – sharing the joy of discovery is what collecting is all about. Who knows, the next time you peek into a jewelry case at an antique shop or an estate sale, you might spot the telltale flash of an inverted stone or a gleam of an ornate prong, and realize you’ve found a Schreiner masterpiece of your very own.
Recent posts
The Collector’s Canvas: Art & Artists Worth Knowing
Frederick Goodall, R.A.: A Victorian Orientalist’s Journey in Art
The Collector’s Canvas: Art & Artists Worth Knowing
Frederic Arthur Bridgman: Sunlit Splendor in Orientalist Art
The Collector’s Vault: Jewelry Designers Worth Knowing
Edwardian Jewelry: A Glittering Era of Elegance and Craftsmanship
See more designers on our Blog
Citations and Further Reading
- Pamela Wiggins Siegel, “Schreiner Costume Jewelry Shines,” Antique Trader (Sept 23, 2020) – Overview of Schreiner’s rising popularity and history
- Collecting Costume Jewelry 101 – Schreiner Jewelry Co., Inc. Profile: Detailed history, family interviews, and glossary of Schreiner design traits by Ann Mitchell Pitman
- Barbara Schwartz, TruFaux Jewels – Schreiner (Designer Profile): Concise Schreiner history and characteristics (1932–1975)
- “Henry Schreiner vintage costume jewelry,” Jewellery Kaleidoscope (Nasvete.com, 2018) – Blog summary of Schreiner’s work and collectible qualities
- Schreinery.com – Schreiner Jewelry Archive: (External resource) An online project documenting confirmed Schreiner designs, created by collector Rui Yang
- Carole Tanenbaum & Eve Townsend, Schreiner: Masters of Twentieth-Century Costume Jewelry (2017) – Definitive book with extensive research, photos, and family insights (a must-read for devoted collectors)