Miriam Haskell: Handcrafted Elegance in Vintage Costume Jewelry

Vintage costume jewelry collectors speak the name Miriam Haskell with a special reverence. Haskell’s pieces embody a bygone era of glamour – each design a miniature work of art, assembled by hand and brimming with romantic detail. From her humble 1920s beginnings to the height of mid-century fame, Miriam Haskell built a legacy that continues to enchant collectors today. In this post, we celebrate Miriam Haskell’s life, her distinctive design elements (think hand-wired beads, lush floral motifs, baroque pearls, and lavish textures), and we’ll showcase a few treasures from our own collection that highlight why Haskell jewelry remains so beloved.

From 1926 Beginnings to Hollywood’s Darling: A Miriam Haskell Biography

An Entrepreneurial Start

Miriam Haskell founded her eponymous jewelry company in 1926. With just $500, she opened a tiny boutique called Le Bijou de l’Heure in New York’s McAlpin Hotel. That same year, she astutely hired designer Frank Hess, a window dresser from Macy’s, to collaborate on designs. This partnership – Haskell’s keen business sense paired with Hess’s design talent – proved magical. By the early 1930s their creations were a hit, adorning New York socialites and catching the eye of Hollywood stars​. (In fact, film icons like Joan Crawford and Lucille Ball amassed huge collections of Haskell jewelry.) 

Rise through the Retro era

During the 1930s and 1940s – the Retro jewelry era – Miriam Haskell’s business flourished despite the Depression and wartime challenges. Her affordable yet exquisite costume pieces, often sold as matching sets (or parures), were popular even in hard times​. As World War II unfolded, metals were rationed, but Haskell adapted by using alternate materials. She encouraged Hess to create patriotic, metal-free jewelry using wood, plastics, and other natural elements. These war-era designs, with bright plastics and painted wood, kept the Haskell aesthetic alive and vibrant when fine metals were scarce – a testament to her ingenuity and the Retro spirit of innovation.

Mid-Century glamour and growth

Haskell’s company hit its peak in the late 1940s and 1950s – aligning perfectly with the Mid-Century Retro period’s fashion renaissance. Post-war, there was a return to opulence and femininity in jewelry, and Miriam Haskell delivered in spades. Her flagship line of faux baroque pearls became a staple for elegant women everywhere. By this time the business had expanded to a Fifth Avenue showroom and boutiques in Miami and London​. Movie star clients continued to shine in her designs; it was said that Joan Crawford owned nearly every piece Haskell produced from the ’20s through ’60s. 

Miriam Haskell’s name had become synonymous with handcrafted glamour. According to one authoritative source, “since 1926, Miriam Haskell revolutionized costume jewelry with her one-of-a-kind, hand-wired designs featuring faux baroque pearls, gilded filigree, and nature-inspired motifs,” and her vintage creations from the 1930s–1950s remain “highly collectible”. 

Indeed, even as Haskell herself stepped back from the company in 1950 due to health issues​ the design legacy she built continued strong under Frank Hess (who stayed on until 1960) and subsequent designers, preserving the Haskell look for future generations of collectors.

The Miriam Haskell Style in Context

To truly appreciate Miriam Haskell’s legacy, it helps to understand how distinctive her work was in its era. In the Art Deco age of the 1920s, jewelry tended toward sleek, machine-inspired geometry – but Haskell and Hess introduced a very different look: romantic, nature-inspired and intricately handmade. This was a refreshing contrast that gained popularity through the Retro and Mid-Century periods, when Hollywood glamour and feminine elegance came back into vogue. 

During the Retro Era (late 1930s–40s):

bold statement jewelry was all the rage – large brooches, tassel necklaces, big earrings – often made with gold plating and bright glass stones due to wartime resource limits. Haskell’s floral ensembles and whimsical motifs fit right in with this go big mentality, yet retained a softness and affordability that endeared them to women on the home front. Her use of alternative materials (like wood and Lucite) during WWII was on-trend and patriotic, proving that costume jewelry could be both stylish and resourceful.

By the Mid-Century (1950s):

Fashion began embracing a polished, ladylike look – think cinched waists, pearls, and coordinated accessories. Haskell jewelry from this time delivered exactly that: romantic pearls and pastel beads, matching bracelet and necklace sets, and feminine floral brooches that complemented the era’s elegant dresses. Many mid-century Haskell pieces have a dreamy quality – soft color palettes and organic designs – aligning with the post-war return to normalcy and glamour​. It’s no surprise that Haskell’s ornate costume jewels were worn by society ladies and even European royalty, not just movie stars. They offered a touch of luxury and whimsy that felt both classic and trendy for the time.

In short, Miriam Haskell thrived by staying true to her handcrafted aesthetic even as trends shifted. Her designs captured the optimism and creativity of the Retro period and the graceful refinement of the Mid-Century style. This timeless appeal is a big reason why Haskell’s vintage pieces are still coveted today – they transcend their era while also perfectly embodying it.

Signature Design Elements: What Makes Haskell Jewelry Special

Collectible Miriam Haskell jewelry is immediately recognizable for its craftsmanship and motifs. In fact, devoted collectors learn to spot an unsigned Haskell piece just by these hallmarks (since many early pieces weren’t signed on the back). Here are the key elements that define the Miriam Haskell signature style:

The back of a Miriam Haskell brooch showing the hallmark filigree base with an attached name cartouche. Nearly all authentic Haskell designs begin with a sturdy metal filigree plate as the foundation, onto which beads, pearls, and stones are meticulously wired by hand one at a time​. The back of a Miriam Haskell brooch showing the hallmark filigree base with an attached name cartouche. Nearly all authentic Haskell designs begin with a sturdy metal filigree plate as the foundation, onto which beads, pearls, and stones are meticulously wired by hand one at a time​. Artisans would literally “sew” the jewelry together using wire, in a technique likened to embroidery, securing each crystal or pearl to the filigree frame instead of using any glue​. The result is a complex, multi-layered design: front-facing elements are densely arranged, while the reverse side shows an ornate filigree lattice that is both decorative and functional in holding the design together.

Artisans would literally “sew” the jewelry together using wire, in a technique likened to embroidery, securing each crystal or pearl to the filigree frame instead of using any glue​. The result is a complex, multi-layered design: front-facing elements are densely arranged, while the reverse side shows an ornate filigree lattice that is both decorative and functional in holding the design together.

An elaborate Miriam Haskell necklace featuring clusters of ruby-red glass beads, faux pearls, and rhinestones on gilded filigree. Haskell’s pieces famously combine lustrous imitation pearls with vibrant art glass stones and Swarovski crystals to create rich, textured motifs​. Natural themes were a recurring inspiration – for example, grape-cluster necklaces and brooches were composed of dangling bead bunches and gilded metal leaves encrusted with rose montées (small faceted rhinestones). This meticulous layering of materials gave even affordable costume jewelry a look of bespoke luxury. Each element (from a dangling glass drop to a tiny seed pearl floret) was chosen to add dimension and sparkle, all wired onto the framework by hand. The overall effect is a piece of jewelry with depth and complexity, one that stands out from mass-produced accessories of the same era.

This meticulous layering of materials gave even affordable costume jewelry a look of bespoke luxury. Each element (from a dangling glass drop to a tiny seed pearl floret) was chosen to add dimension and sparkle, all wired onto the framework by hand. The overall effect is a piece of jewelry with depth and complexity, one that stands out from mass-produced accessories of the same era.

These design elements, taken together, are why Miriam Haskell jewelry is so distinctive and collectible. The meticulous hand-workmanship gives them a quality feel; the nature-inspired beauty gives them timeless charm. As one vintage jewelry expert put it, Miriam Haskell “never mass-produced her creations — each piece was assembled by hand, making every item unique,” and she “set a new standard for costume jewelry” with her faux pearls, filigree metalwork and bead arrangements​. For collectors, owning a Miriam Haskell piece is like holding a tiny treasure from the past – imbued with the care and artistry of its maker.

Treasures from Our Miriam Haskell Collection

Nothing brings the Haskell story to life better than the jewelry itself! We’re fortunate to have several gorgeous Miriam Haskell pieces in our collection. Below, we highlight three favorites – a bold lion-head necklace, a charming red-and-white beaded bracelet, and a matching enamel necklace/bracelet set. Each exemplifies the hallmarks of Haskell’s work we’ve been talking about.

The Majestic Lion Necklace: Whimsy Meets Grandeur

A vintage Miriam Haskell lion necklace with a gold-tone roaring lion pendant and tassel drops, circa 1950s (Worth & Co. collection). This dramatic lion head necklace is a perfect example of Haskell whimsy and craftsmanship. It features a large gilt metal lion’s face – complete with flowing mane and fierce open mouth – suspended from a substantial 30-inch chain​. In true Haskell fashion, the pendant is richly detailed: note the intricate texturing of the mane and the sparkling rhinestone eyes that give the lion a regal expression​. Two dangling chain tassels hang from the lion’s jaw, adding movement and a touch of playful elegance. The entire piece is finished in a antiqued gold-tone patina, typical of Haskell’s mid-century Russian gold plating.

Our lion necklace dates to the 1950s–60s when novel, figural motifs were popular in costume jewelry. Miriam Haskell embraced this trend by creating pieces like this that were both bold and exquisitely made – a combination that makes them highly collectible today. The necklace carries the Miriam Haskell signature tag near the clasp, affirming its authenticity​. We love how this design showcases Haskell’s range: she wasn’t limited to just florals and pearls; she could also go big and imaginative with something like a roaring lion! Wearing this necklace is truly a statement – it brings a bit of vintage Hollywood drama to any outfit, and for Haskell enthusiasts, it’s a prized conversation piece. (It’s easy to imagine a glamorous 1950s starlet draping this lion pendant over a black cocktail dress, commanding attention at a party.) The piece embodies Miriam Haskell’s legacy of ornate, hand-crafted fun – jewelry that sparks joy as much as it exudes elegance.

White & Red Beaded Bracelet: Classic Haskell Charm

A signed Miriam Haskell bracelet showcasing alternating white glass beads and red spacers, with a large white cabochon accent (Worth & Co. collection). This delightful white and red beaded bracelet captures the essence of Haskell’s beadwork. It consists of multiple strands of glossy white beads, punctuated by tiny pops of deep red. The focal point is a large white glass cabochon with swirled brown veining, framed by smaller beads – almost like a flower bud at the bracelet’s center. All the beads are meticulously hand-wired onto the underlying structure, creating a lush, clustered effect​. (No glue here – just the steady work of a jeweler threading each bead in place by hand!)

This bracelet likely dates to the mid-1950s and reflects the era’s cheerful yet refined color palettes. The white beads could be interpreted as faux pearls (Haskell’s signature), but here they’re done in an opaque “milk glass” style for a bright, summery look. The little red beads add contrast and character – Haskell often used red, coral, or berry-toned accents to give her pieces a dash of color. With its layered strands and balanced design, this bracelet is both versatile and eye-catching. You could imagine it paired with a classic suit or dress in the ’50s, adding a fashionable flair.

Collectors especially appreciate signed pieces like this one (it has a Miriam Haskell signed clasp, indicating it was made after 1947 when her branded clasps became common​). More than its signature, though, it’s the construction that tells the tale: the beads are strung on wire and tightly wrapped around a filigree base, a hallmark of authentic Haskell workmanship. In our collection, we treasure this bracelet for its timeless elegance – it’s understated enough for everyday wear, yet undeniably Miriam Haskell in its detail. It beautifully illustrates how Haskell could take a simple idea (red and white beads) and elevate it into something artful and collectible.

Enamel Flower Necklace & Bracelet Set: A Statement in White

A rare Miriam Haskell jewelry set featuring a matching triple-strand necklace and bracelet with white enamel swirls and glass beads (Worth & Co. collection). Sets like this stunning necklace and bracelet duo are a collector’s dream – they show how Miriam Haskell excelled at creating coordinated pieces (parures) that make a statement together. The design of this set is truly unique: each piece centers on a white enamel swirl flower motif. On both the necklace and bracelet, petal-like arms of white enamel radiate around a round white cabochon, forming a bold floral burst. Surrounding the enamel centerpiece, Haskell’s signature beadwork comes into play – three strands of beads graduate out on each side​. The beads themselves are a mix of opaque white glass in varying shapes (smooth rounds, faceted beads, and tiny seed beads), with a few translucent milky crystals interspersed to add texture. The effect is a monochromatic white-on-white palette, yet far from boring due to the variety of forms and the shiny enamel accents.

Surrounding the enamel centerpiece, Haskell’s signature beadwork comes into play – three strands of beads graduate out on each side​. The beads themselves are a mix of opaque white glass in varying shapes (smooth rounds, faceted beads, and tiny seed beads), with a few translucent milky crystals interspersed to add texture. The effect is a monochromatic white-on-white palette, yet far from boring due to the variety of forms and the shiny enamel accents.

This set likely hails from the late 1940s or early 1950s. The use of white enamel is characteristic of some Haskell pieces in that era, reflecting a trend for bold enamel jewelry. What’s especially charming is the way the enamel is used to create a stylized flower – almost like a retro starburst or pinwheel design – giving the set a chic mid-century modern vibe. Despite the departure from more naturalistic flowers, the set still feels in tune with Haskell’s love of florals, just in a more abstract way. Both necklace and bracelet are, of course, wired by hand and set on gilded metal frameworks (if you peek at the back, you’ll see the classic filigree plates and the “Miriam Haskell” cartouche signifying authenticity). The necklace measures about 16.5 inches and the bracelet about 8 inches, each with adjustable clasps​ – designed to fit the fashionable lady comfortably.

Wearing this set, one can instantly channel mid-century elegance. Imagine it paired with a simple black dress – the white would pop, making the enamel swirls and bead strands the focal point of the outfit. There’s a certain Old Hollywood glamour to it, yet also a playful freshness from the all-white design. In terms of collectibility, intact Miriam Haskell sets are relatively rare (many were separated over time), so having both pieces together is special. This set exemplifies Miriam Haskell’s artistic craftsmanship: it’s sculptural, beautifully constructed, and undeniably eye-catching. For us, it’s a showpiece that often gets pride of place in displays – a reminder of how Haskell could marry innovation (enamel swirls!) with her traditional beads to create something truly memorable.

Celebrating Haskell’s Legacy

Warm, whimsical, and meticulously crafted – Miriam Haskell’s jewelry holds a unique place in the hearts of vintage collectors. Nearly a century after she founded her company, her pieces remain highly sought-after treasures, not only for their beauty but for the story they carry. Each brooch or necklace is a tangible link to the glamour of the 1930s–50s, lovingly preserved for us to enjoy. Collectors often remark on the almost personal connection they feel with Haskell’s work; because every piece was handmade, owning one can feel like owning a small piece of Miriam’s artistic spirit.

If you’re as enchanted by Miriam Haskell as we are, we invite you to explore our curated Miriam Haskell collection, where you can discover authentic Haskell necklaces, bracelets, brooches and more. Perhaps you’ll find the next gem to add to your vintage jewelry box! And be sure to continue your journey through jewelry history by visiting our Jewelry Blog for more stories of designers and eras gone by.

Collectors know that finding a Miriam Haskell piece is finding a treasure – we hope this celebration of her legacy inspires you to hunt for those treasures, wear them with joy, and carry on the story of this remarkable woman and her beautiful, bygone world of costume jewelry.

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